| | | | | and push our mounts as the rider “paddled” |
| The Lost Coast | | | | along a foot and half wide path. A fall to the right |
| | | | | and the bikes would disappear below the murky |
| The day had finally arrived to ride the Lost | | | | surface like the USS Snapper did to evade the |
| Coast. Immediately upon being stationed back in | | | | Japanese warships seeking revenge. A fall to the left |
| Northern California I traded in my BMW RT 1100 for | | | | and the KLR’s would tumble down the cliff face |
| a 2008 KLR 650. What better route for an inaugural | | | | to the Pacific. Riding the bikes across the narrow |
| ride? After many years of “hotel” touring I | | | | path was too risky as the path itself was muddy and |
| was transitioning back to my “pack it light, freeze | | | | the tires could possibly slip. A few adrenaline filled |
| at night” mode of travel. The Usal Road and Lost | | | | heartbeats later, the bikes were safely across, |
| Coast road conditions were an unknown. The winter | | | | loaded and moving at speed. Usal Road might support |
| months of 2008 had seen a lot of rain on the North | | | | KTM Adventures and BMW GS’s in the dry |
| Coast near Eureka California and my research | | | | seasons but in the winter months anything larger |
| indicated that the roads could be impassable if wet. | | | | than a KLR would be difficult to navigate the |
| Would the KLR be able to conquer what the | | | | numerous mud bogs. The bigger bikes would be |
| King’s Range and Sinkyone Wilderness threw our | | | | exhausting to manhandle through calf high mud. When |
| way in late March? To hedge my bets I packed two | | | | we finally reached Usal Beach we were rewarded by |
| motorcycle tie down straps that could possible double | | | | pristine beaches. The ocean front was all but |
| as tow straps. My riding partner for this trip would be | | | | abandoned and the KLR’s proved capable of |
| a college roommate from 19 years ago. Glenn had | | | | crossing numerous streams as we explored the |
| called the day prior with a cryptic, “I’ve | | | | beaches. The “Bug” loved the fresh ocean air |
| bought something that will handle anything the road | | | | but the KLR 600 began to show her warts. On the |
| will throw at us.” Cryptic messages are usually | | | | last stretch prior to reaching Shelter Cove the KLR |
| never good. Maybe the extra space the straps would | | | | 600 quite running on one of the steepest parts of |
| take was cheap insurance. Where we were going | | | | the route. Glenn rolled his chicken bones and sprinkled |
| Triple A would fear to tread. | | | | blood on the carburetor with no luck. Un-strapping |
| Sunday’s early morning start was delayed until | | | | one of the tie down straps from my Givi I hooked it |
| 3:00 pm due to Easter commitments. The afternoon | | | | to the 600 and the “Bug” transformed to |
| came and went. I received a call from Glenn that his | | | | “El Burro” as I towed the 600 up the hill. A |
| new mystery machine would not start. Certainly a | | | | day of many first. A quick dance to the motorcycle |
| dark harbinger of things to come. The afternoon | | | | gods and the 600 fired up and we were Shelter |
| ticked by and 5:00 pm turned to 7:00 pm. Glenn | | | | Cove bound. The night at Shelter Cove was one of |
| limped into Rohnert Park, CA around 8:30 pm, cold, | | | | the most beautiful I have spent on the Northern |
| lost but armed with a hearty appetite and an equally | | | | California coast. The wind was totally absent and the |
| hearty and upbeat attitude; definitely the kind of | | | | stars shone brighter than the light in the |
| partner and attitude you need when venturing into | | | | decommissioned lighthouse. A couple of touches of |
| the unknown. The said mystery machine came in the | | | | Kentucky Bourbon made the night complete. |
| form of a 1985 KLR 600! The $800.00 museum piece | | | | A late start on day two due to |
| was a steal until the hard starting bike continued to | | | | Glenn locking his clothes in the dryer room and a |
| flood the aftermarket two stroke carburetor and | | | | non-responsive “steal of a bike” delayed us |
| killed the battery (steal was the right term but only | | | | until 10:30. I began to sense who was the victim on |
| time would tell who the victim was). Ever resilient, | | | | this purchase and it wasn’t the “master |
| Glenn fixed the problem that Sunday and forged | | | | mechanic” in Sacramento who sold Glenn the |
| ahead from Sacramento to Sonoma County. My | | | | bike. Another quart of chicken blood and his bike |
| mom was all too happy to feed the tired road | | | | roared to life. We entered King’s Range Road |
| warrior with a home cooked meal. We modified the | | | | and crossed into another world. The range had |
| game plan that night and decided not to ride the | | | | received more than its average share of rainfall that |
| Trinity Heritage National Scenic Highway (also known | | | | winter. The fog shrouding the greenery reminded us |
| as Hwy 299/3) and the Bigfoot Scenic Byway (Hwy | | | | of the rainforest of Costa Rica and Ecuador. Taking a |
| 96) loop out of Eureka. The bikes were prepped and | | | | wrong turn we followed the rocky dead end road to |
| ready despite a little incident with my newly | | | | the Lightening Trailhead. The rocks took a toll on our |
| purchased mount. I realized I shouldn’t have | | | | tires but the scenery was worth the cost in rubber. |
| procrastinated in purchasing a center stand. While | | | | The tight, twisty, uphill, climb on the way to |
| filling the tires earlier in the day the bike fell over as I | | | | Honeydew was one of the best parts of the trip. It |
| pushed on the stems with a bit too much vigor. To | | | | was only challenged by the route from Petrolia to |
| the KLR’s credit, the new plastic radiator shrouds | | | | Ferndale. This portion of road twisted along the shore |
| withstood the tip over and the “Bug” (as my | | | | and then paralleled the crashing waves. Glenn played |
| daughter calls it) came away with only two minor | | | | the part of ranch hand as he herded an errant cow |
| scratches. | | | | off the road and back into the field on his |
| | | | | temperamental steed. Anything can be thrown your |
| The next morning we headed north on Hwy 101 in | | | | way on the Lost Coast. |
| the early Northern California chill, the two extremes | | | | Leaving the ocean behind us, we quickly climbed |
| of the KLR spectrum thumping along in harmony. At | | | | 2,400 ft. to Bunker Hill and then descended into a |
| 8:30am we decided to pull into Cloverdale and have a | | | | beautiful valley. As we crossed Bear River were it |
| quick bite at the local McDonalds. An old timer took | | | | emptied into the ocean, Glenn pointed to the |
| an interest in our trip and told us how he used to | | | | switchbacks climbing the hill. I pumped my arm in |
| race his Harley Davidson against the British invasion | | | | response and rolled on the throttle. In the ensuing |
| of BSA’s back in 1949 but lost to the lighter, | | | | climb we became one with our machines to the point |
| faster bikes when it came to cross country racing. | | | | where it felt as if the bikes disappeared and we |
| Over coffee talk turned to younger days. We shared | | | | were “skiing” through the picturesque |
| our experience in the Cavalry (Glenn a pilot in the Air | | | | Northern California scenery. The environment was a |
| Cav, I a ground scout, and Don a sixteen year old | | | | mix of Switzerland and Southern England, the narrow |
| Horse Cavalryman back in 1938). Soon after his horse | | | | two lane roads lined with shrubs, trees, and cattle |
| cavalry days Don was prowling the South China Sea. | | | | racing by. We were sad to see the Lost Coast |
| His new ride was the USS Snapper, a 1928 era sub | | | | disappear in our rear view mirrors but looked forward |
| that made it out of Manila Harbor prior to the fall of | | | | to exploring Humboldt Redwoods State Park, the |
| the Philippines. He wished he could join us on our bike | | | | Avenue of the Giants, and the Eel River. |
| trip but his knee replacement was in a few days. Any | | | | Unable to find a camp ground in |
| adventure we would encounter paled to his depth | | | | Eureka we headed to Fortuna were the KLR 600 |
| charge experiences during the war. We thanked him | | | | died on Main Street. Coaxing the bike to life Glenn |
| for his sacrifices and service to country as we | | | | met me at the RV park were we secured a log cabin |
| headed northwest. | | | | for a pittance. Money well spent considering the |
| The bikes made quick work of Hwy 128 to | | | | rainfall that night. After filling our belly’s with our |
| Mendocino as we fell into a smooth pace through the | | | | fair share of ale at the Eel River Brewery, Glenn filled |
| vineyards and redwood trees. At Fort Bragg we | | | | his ego flirting with the very attractive female body |
| attempted to find a dirt route east towards Glenblair | | | | builder bartender. We needed sleep as the road |
| and back to 101 in order to shake down our load | | | | began to take its toll. Tomorrow would be very |
| plans and bikes. We were thwarted by dead ends | | | | trying for us both. |
| and gated access but rewarded by the single lane | | | | The next morning the KLR was DOA but Glenn was |
| dirt roads. Doubling back we proceed up Hwy 1 | | | | loathe to admit it. After coaxing him into getting a |
| picking up the pace, energized by the crashing waves | | | | U-Haul we doubled up on the “Bug” and |
| and redwoods. Passing Rockport we scanned for | | | | made our way through Ferndale. We were already |
| Hwy 435/Usal Road but were so enamored with this | | | | pushing 11:30 am so time was a factor as work |
| part of Hwy 101 that we were nearly in Leggett | | | | loomed the next day. In route Glenn spotted an ATV |
| before we discovered we had missed our turn. | | | | and Tire shop. Tom, the owner and mechanic, took |
| Backtracking we found 431. If it wasn’t for the | | | | pity on us and gave us the keys to his truck and the |
| fact that we knew it was at mile marker 90.88 we | | | | KLR 600 received a new lease on life. In two hours |
| never would have found it. The start point looked like | | | | we were rolling south on Hwy 101 thanks to Tom |
| a private dirt drive. How this used to be a | | | | and his prompt attention. Although this was my |
| stagecoach route is beyond me. They must have | | | | fourth time down the Avenue of the Giants, I was |
| gone through multiple teams given the steep hills and | | | | amazed by the 40 miles of beauty. The coup de |
| rough conditions. The views were stunning as we | | | | grace was when we received a free “Drive thru |
| peered down on the Pacific. Accompanying the | | | | Tree” experience by a fellow KLR rider. |
| breathtaking scenery was a chance encounter with a | | | | The low point came 11 miles north of Laytonville. |
| bear cub ambling across the road. Startled by the | | | | The KLR 600 gave up its ninth life and died on the |
| “Bug’s” growl he ran back to mama and | | | | west side of 101. Suspecting fuel starvation I made |
| we continued our journey. The KLR weren’t | | | | desperation run to Laytonville for gas. False hope as |
| challenged by the roads and we thought the | | | | the bike had pulled itself off of life support. A CHP |
| estimated 3 hrs to reach Shelter Cove was an | | | | officer radioed a tow truck which arrived at 6:30 pm |
| erroneous estimate. We would soon learn 6 hrs was | | | | and Glenn was on his own. Facing 35F weather and |
| barely enough. I also discovered that years of | | | | a 2 hr plus ride from Laytonville I raced south. Two |
| “hoteling” had taught me to over pack my | | | | things helped me survive that trip; the Hotgrips on |
| Givi top case. The first and only flaw of my KLR | | | | my KLR and singing every cadence at the top of my |
| became evident when Glenn yelled for me to stop. | | | | lungs. By 8:40 pm I was eating hot chow on the |
| Rolling down the hill was my Givi and half my KLR | | | | objective while Glenn was writing a new chapter on |
| luggage rack! The tie down straps were pressed into | | | | motorcycling on the edge. A day and a half later he |
| service sooner than I had expected. | | | | made it back to Sacramento. A story best told over |
| | | | | several cold beers. |
| Soon we encountered the first of | | | | For pure diversity of terrain, |
| many delays. Mud, and lots of it. The KLR’s could | | | | vegetation, animal and road conditions nothing can |
| not make it through the think soup, rear ends | | | | beat the Lost Coast of California. Dual purpose riding |
| spinning out of control and flopping on their sides. | | | | milks the most fun per mile than pretty much any |
| Glenn and I ported our gear when necessary and | | | | bike I have ever ridden. Despite all the web noise |
| then manhandled our mounts, pushing and cursing the | | | | about the fairing falling apart due to vibration and the |
| machines through the muck. At the worse point, | | | | new KLR consuming quarts of oil, it is simply has not |
| after we found a bypass to a seemingly impassable | | | | happened with this bike. Despite an operator induced |
| portion of the road, Mark from San Jose (in a tricked | | | | tip over, the KLR fairing survived an encounter with a |
| out Jeep-the only other human encounter on the | | | | concrete parking block and after 2,000 miles the |
| scenic roadway), destroyed the bypass (for bikes at | | | | “Bug” has not consumed any oil. The KLR will |
| least) as his Jeep chewed up the ground. Bouncing | | | | remain in the stable regardless of whatever type bike |
| off a tree he succeeded but erased any notions of | | | | comes along in the future. For pure versatility and |
| turning back. For better or worse we were | | | | “bang for the buck” fun, this bike cannot be |
| committed. No further than 200 yards down the Usal | | | | beat. |
| Road we were forced to unload the KLR’s again | | | | |